For months the Blockbuster sat forlornly along Route 100 in the quaint village of Eagle; like other doomed area retailers such as Circuit City and Borders, the darkened store was emblematic of our economy’s nasty downturn.Sometime mid-last year, we, the Chester Springs gentry who have been hungering for something new and interesting on our culinary horizon, started to see movement occur at the site. A pickup truck pulling in here, a worker on the roof there – construction soon began in earnest and the word quickly spread: “new restaurant alert!”
This past February 2nd, Liberty Union Bar & Grill officially opened its doors to the public and our dining landscape has been nicely, and thankfully, enhanced. Owned by Steven Schwenk, a local who has restaurant-ing in his blood and a talent for thematics and spatial functionality, somehow took the bland rectangular box that was the Blockbuster and impressively transformed it into an attractive enclave offering American comfort fare while featuring visual odes to our country’s heritage.
Apparently, the generic store with its faux walls and water stained drop ceiling was hiding something figuratively gemological: a diamond-in-the-rough. Steve quickly demolished the interior and created a vaulted ceiling to provide airy loftiness which runs central through the space. He took down the black plastic sheets that had previously covered the wide windows, and voilà! The restaurant became illuminated and energized.
In three attractive front dining rooms and the bustling bar area there is nifty paraphernalia and many TVs. More televisions and state license plates line the walls of the back dining area. Tchotchkes such as a vintage sewing machine, an Electrolux vacuum and old oil cans are throughout. The venue’s color scheme is, of course, red, white & blue.
To summarize: Liberty Union pretty much shouts a resounding “USA! USA!”
And so does the menu.
Many states are represented by Executive Chef Mike Crenny, starting with the appetizers. These include Arkansas fried pickle spears with a ranch dipping sauce, Buffalo New York wings, Texas caviar (black eyed peas & Pico de Gallo in a tortilla bowl), and the chef’s own nod to the Commonwealth – Pennsylvania soft pretzel twists.
We enjoyed a build-your-own burger (big on beef/a hefty bun), a create-your-own salad (our choices: arugula, candied walnuts, blue cheese chunks & balsamic dressing), a belly-warming chicken pot pie, and, my pick for the area’s best new comfort food creation – The Louisville Hot Brown – open face white bread smothered with tender turkey breast meat, thick slabs of smoky bacon and creamy white cheddar cheese which is quick-fired in the broiler. Yum!
Other Union representations are the tangy Carolina pulled pork sandwich, a California wrap, Alaskan salmon, Maryland crab cakes, and the bone-in Kansas City pork chop.
On the sweet side of this land of liberty, desserts such as New York cheesecake, a gooshy Toll House-style chocolate chip cookie sandwich with vanilla ice cream, and, of course, apple pie, are temping classics.
Fortunately, Steve has directed just as much attention toward his bar program with a fine wine selection that goes far beyond the dulled-down cabs & chards found at most family-oriented places. Beers are abundant, well-crafted and rotating; most of them having been born in the USA. Always expect a local spotlight – Victory & Troegs were tapped and flowing during my recent visit. Even mixed drinks have indigenous panache. “The Philly Covered Pretzel” (Pinnacle Whipped Cream Vodka and Frangelico is served in a chocolate and salt rimmed martini glass), and, also, “The Tennessee Honey” (Jack Daniels Honey & lemonade) are two spirited choices.
One alfresco note: There is a small outdoor patio out front and an enclosed back porch for warmer weather dining.
If Schwenk gets a dollar for every time a local tells him how much we’ve needed a place like his in the area, he’ll really be living The American Dream, especially if each comment is followed-up with a U.S. currency-generating visit. The success of Liberty Union, though, is pretty much a given.
That video/DVD store may be long gone, yet in its place, Steven Schwenk definitely has a blockbuster all his own.
Find Liberty Union at 325 Simpson Drive in Chester Springs. The restaurant is reachable by phone at 484-359-4061 and online at libertyunionbar.com.
Photographs credited to Ronna Dewey.
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