Milky Way Farm’s Farm to Table Feast Features Local Food, Flavor and Connections

It’s nearing dusk on an unseasonably warm Sunday night in early April, and I’m zipping down Route 113, eagerly anticipating the night ahead in Chester Springs – specifically an evening to be spent on the Matthews’ family farm, Milky Way Farm.

The farm’s scene is like you’d expect as the night nears – the 100+ acres of fields’ lay still, the herds of Holstein cows have headed toward the barn to bed, and overall, the undeniably peaceful setting is almost shocking, as well-travelled highways are just mere miles away. But, on this particular night, the Matthews family has decided to do something they have not yet done – they’re hosting a farm-to-table dinner.

The masterminds behind the culinary affair on the farm are Carolyn Matthews Eaglehouse and Thomas Matthews, siblings who are the third-generation family running the farm, with Carolyn’s Chester Springs Creamery (which is also on the MWF’s property) acting as the eye-catching venue for the eats-infused affair.

Of course, the guests of honor (and our tablemates) for the Sunday supper are Sam and Melba Matthews, the parents of the hosting duo and the second generation of the Milky Way Farm (who happen to still reside on the property and maintain the day-to-day with their children). As you may assume, it’s a total thrill to be seated with the “it” couple of any must-attend feast, and with Melba being an incredible storyteller who can vividly articulate stories of the farm’s past until the sun rises, our seating situation is one to envy.

With giddy whispers of more than 40 guests echoing off the rustic, barn-like interior of the creamery – a space that vibrantly complements the farm homestead, our evening was called to order, welcoming the players for the night that would unfold.

Chef Jonathan Amann of Amani’s BYOB in Downingtown, Pa., manned the kitchen for the night, constructing four unforgettable courses. Amann has built his reputation as a chef creating locally-inspired and -sourced dishes for mindful crowds since debuting Amani’s BYO in 2009 with his wife, Jeanine. Appropriately so, Chef Jon has been partial to sourcing a majority of his meats from Milky Way Farm from day one, celebrating the local farming and agricultural culture each day, plate by plate.

Joining the Matthews and the Amanns are Lance and Valerie Castle, one-half of the wine-savvy operating team at Black Walnut Winery. Lance, the eloquent winemaker of the Sadsburyville, Pa.-based winery, prepped for the occasion by expertly calibrating sips that would enhance and accompany each of the evening’s pairings. And, with this confident rosy accent on the event’s roster, we’re eager to bite (or, shall we say sip) into the evening.

With Melba’s china and candlewick glass plateware in tow, Chef Amann introduces attendees to his cuisine with a plate possessing many ingredients from the farm for which we were eating. His restaurant staple, the Baby Spinach Salad, came dancing with MWF hard-boiled eggs, his own house-cured and -smoked MWF bacon, toasted pine nuts, and a splash of from-scratch honey dijon. Simple and satisfying, especially on a humid night, had diners quickly gushing over the construction of the introductory salad–which met its wine match easily after one sip, with BWW’s 2008 Blanc Franc.

But, before we dive into course two, you must take a breather because I’m about to bestow on you a little love in regards to one of the best dishes that has ever met our darling eyes (I repeat, ever).

Without noodling around, Chef Jon’s Butternut Square Ravioli is a clear, concrete representation as to why he has been named “Best Chef of Chester County” for two years in a row. These doughy pockets are pumped with a fresh, sweet dose of squash, and drenched in a mouthwatering, will-jump-borders-for sage brown butter sauce. Oh, and we’re not done yet! More hunks of MWF bacon (yes, two courses with bacon = score!) are plopped on top aside crushed chipotle walnuts, giving the dish a beautiful backbone of savory and spicy. Since, the chef’s course happens to be a rockstar–and, well complex–BWW kept it simple with the pairing, a crisp, semi-sweet 2010 Sauv Blanc.

As the momentum of the meal remained casual and comforting, Amann rattled off details regarding his MWF dedication, forever making use of everything from the farm he could and always spotlighting Chester County-bred goods in their utmost glory.

Now, the MWF’s Holsteins (translation: black and white milking cows) were becoming the stars, as each guest was served a hearty veal coupling: a chop served with a wild ‘shroom ragu and an addictive Madeira cream sauce and scallopine with a lemon basil beurre blanc. It’s a magical experience, I admit, to be eating beef at the farm on which it was raised, with the handiwork of Amani’s superstar by its side, the event’s main course captivated the crowd as they forked away.

Since Lance didn’t want to step on the veal with a heavy red, he chose BWW’s light-and-peppery 2008 Syrah to squeeze aside course three. This tasting opportunity came at a fine time too: We were able to taste-test the beauty of a red that nabbed a Bronze Medal at the Pa. Wine Competition.

To my surprise and delight, our final tasting on the farm featured one of Carolyn’s signature ice cream flavors: Dulce de Leche. As Chef Jon continuously revealed that he isn’t a pro at desserts, his icy cream pairing came in the form of a Bananas Foster Bread Pudding – and, with one bite, every eater became a sweet believer in his pastry art skill sets. Lance perked our ‘buds with a dessert wine, as well: their award-winning 2009 Vidal Blanc, which I could honestly drink morning, noon or night–with or without dessert.

Lucky for locals, Thomas is friends with Tim Noble, owner and barista of Merion, Pa.’s Town Hall Coffee Company. No better an opportunity to “caff up” than following an enchanting, wine-infused feast. Slugging his stellar espresso machine on-site for the night, Tim welcomed steamy beverage orders, and I can now surely say I am a pure Town Hall believer.

Part of Milky Way Farm’s mission is to educate children and adults about agriculture and why farming is important in our lives. Their feast did just that, vibrantly exposing their gifts for hungry supporters, illustrating how modern-day farmers stay afloat by working side-by-side with their community (the Matthews with the Amanns, the Amanns with the Castles, the Nobles with Matthews… the list continues).

“We thank you for working with us to develop relationships with you and our products,” concluded Carolyn, following a rousing applause from the thoroughly satisfied guests.

Community and agriculture? A match made in food lover’s paradise. To the Matthews, we thank you. Your ability to successfully maintain the ancestral landscape through tradition and current-day innovations is mind-blowing – and, we tip our wannabe-farmer hats to you.

Find Milky Way Farm at 521 East Uwchlan Avenue in Chester Springs. Another third generation of the Matthews family is Jane and her husband, Tim Ferris. Jane takes part in the day-to-day, as well, with Tim maintaining the on-site CSA, FarmHouse Markets.

Photographs credited to Nina Lea Photography. Click here for even more photographs of the recent affair at Milky Way Farm.

3 Comments