There had to be a definite point in time when the transformation was made. I like to think it was overnight when a few particular stars aligned and every kitchen across the globe turned out perfect dishes, Freaky Friday style. However, my logical half knows there were a few key players involved in this movement. There are people, groups of people, who pushed the culinary industry and all its touch points—farmers, artisans, servers, producers, chefs—to a rock star status.
I didn’t know it when attending my first Outstanding in the Field dinner back in 2010, but after becoming submerged in all things culinary and returning for my second experience this September, it all clicked. These guys get it. In fact, founder Jim Denevan and his team got it in 1999 when they first began their roving culinary adventure across America (which eventually spread overseas), setting an iconic long table in the most unique environments with one main mission in mind: honor the people whose good work brings nourishment to the table.
“People have asked me over the years, ‘Did you really expect to go to 47 states and 9 countries and serve 70,000 people?’” Jim played out his response as it would go in those conversations: “Ummm, kind of,” and the group in attendance for this Outstanding in the Field event at Blooming Glen Farm on September 14 collectively responded with laughter.
He went on while standing atop a wooden crate amidst the breathtaking background of farm lands. “I thought it was a good idea. I thought it would do well. It wasn’t until 2006 that it started to actually work. Now we have consistent attendees, we go to the farms we love. Our second dinner was at my brother’s farm. I wanted to feature people like my brother so that people could come out to his farm and see what he does. I thought restaurants were getting better at the time and part of the reason they were getting better is because they started to have the name of the farmer on the menu, which wasn’t really happening before that. So I thought maybe we’ll extend that.”
This extension Jim spoke of is nothing to scoff at and may be something one can only understand by attending their events, like the dinner on September 14, where the farmers, chefs, producers and culinary artisans performed an unforgettable show and we diners happily assumed the “groupie” role. We waved our wine-filled glasses in the air, not unlike tiny flames being thrown up for an epic song. Instead of hailing a guitarist, we were celebrating winemaker Richard Blair of Kutztown’s Blair Vineyards, who won our hearts with each glass of quality wine that complemented Chef Lee Chizmar’s cuisine. I’m highly convinced their 2012 Riesling could change the mind of any anti-white wine drinker, but the home-run performance of the evening for me was their 2009 Pinot Noir. The cool weather and natural scenery may have contributed to my love for its warming tones and hints of nutmeg, but truth be told, I could enjoy this well-rounded red just about anywhere. That evening I was beyond ecstatic to enjoy it with a six bean and Teprovich Farm watermelon salad complete with confit lamb, Valley Milkhouse feta, Blooming Glen Farm shallot relish and mint.
The celebration of culinary contributors continued with a major nod to Tricia Borneman and Tom Murtha, the folks behind the reins of the beautiful host location in Perkasie, Pa., Blooming Glen Farm.
“This is our passion project/cross to bear, so to speak,” Tom Murtha shared after taking foot atop the wooden crate next to his partner in crime, Tricia. “Especially at this time of year, I was reflecting on the fact that this part of the farm season is where we get to the point where we are so over it. There’s temptation to put the mower on the tractor and mow everything with reckless abandon and say, ‘We’re done. We’re good…’ But this is the fourth year these guys have come and it’s kind of perfect timing for us to see the whole thing in a different way. Seeing the table set up and all your faces here, who totally get what we do, which is awesome. It’s just like a little wrinkle, a reminder for us that it’s totally radical. That even when we are overwhelmed by what we do and thinking we could be librarians or bus drivers, something other than this unbelievable thing [farming] that takes us over, there’s really nothing else we’d rather be doing or really could do.”
I knew his speech was resonating with all guests in attendance as deeply as it was with me. Everyone suddenly became more grateful for farmers, no matter how much tribute they already paid in their regular routines, and if attendees didn’t realize it immediately upon arrival at that Outstanding in the Field event, Tom and Tricia’s address to the crowd definitely did the trick—we, as consumers, cannot exist without their relentless hard work and labors of love on their farm, on every farm that Outstanding in the Field highlights.
Of course, there may have been a few straggler guests lingering at the Blair Vineyards wine table (can’t totally blame them) when this speech went down, but one of the greatest acts of the evening came from chef Lee Chizmar and his team at Bolete Restaurant. That act undoubtedly put those guests in their place, reminding all of us of another important reason to support farmers, artisans and their products—because the flavors and dishes that result from such high quality, local ingredients is unparalleled.
Just as I was familiar with Outstanding in the Field before this particular experience, Bolete Restaurant was no stranger to my culinary gallivants either. But then again, this gem of an eatery nestled in Bethlehem, Pa., is also familiar to the Philadelphia Inquirer, Food Network, Gourmet magazine and many more media. To be honest, though, press had nothing to do with my introduction and eventual culinary love affair with Bolete. That’s another story that can be told another time. This story involves chef Lee Chizmar, his team, their thoughtful cuisine and their mission.
This story places Bolete front and center with all of us culinary groupies begging for an encore (and not because we had too much Blair Vineyards wine while “tailgating”). Our desire for more began in the first few minutes when guests were greeted with an array of upscale picnic cuisine, from fried chicken sandwiches on house-made buttermilk biscuits with a tobacco aioli and Liberty Gardens mustard greens to grilled brick-oven flatbread, topped with squash, sage, house-cured bacon and Primordia Farm hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. As a relief to the pleasant barrage of comfort food, a refreshing shot of chilled gazpacho with avocado mousse and smoked trout was passed around by the informed and courteous servers. The attention to detail continued as guests completed a farm tour, grabbed a plate, found an unassigned seat and became acquainted with their dinner neighbors.
Outstanding in the Field’s iconic, long communal table encourages quick friendships without a doubt, but there’s also a good-natured spirit to the occasions, like your typical music festival, that paves the way for non-stop smiles. The artistic tablescape also served as the perfect setting for Bolete’s heirloom tomato salad, which kicked off the seated cuisine for the evening, accompanied by Keepsake Farm raw milk mozzarella (made in the field moments before hitting the table), a delicate arugula pesto and pistachios. We washed each ultra-fresh and flavorful bite down with a swig of Blair Vineyards Pinot Gris and patiently awaited the remaining courses.
Thinking back, there was a considerate amount of time between each offering, but nothing that would have caused alarm or discomfort because the portions were generous and the crowd (staff included) was instinctively sociable. Still, when a dish was set down to be enjoyed, like the Profeta Farms pork loin that had been spit roasting on the farm since the wee hours of the morning, we groupies focused our attention on the course of the moment, savoring the carefully picked ingredients and widening our eyes almost in disbelief of the incredible talent.
The amazement continued for me beyond the final course of squash cheesecake with Scholl Orchard apple compote to the following morning, and the morning after that, and after that. I couldn’t quite shake the experience, in the best way possible. I was forced to dissect the culinary tremors and found the Outstanding in the Field team at the core. They were, and always will be in my eyes, a major catalyst for the culinary rock star movement. They are eat-local advocates at their finest, connectors of people to their primal being, celebrators of true art and masters of organization. It’s their remarkable operation that kickstarted a movement, and the sooner you can accept your groupie status, the better.
