On a recent Dish Trip to Dallas, Texas, our ravenously hungry—and thirsty—food crew became acquainted with the city’s notable chef John Kleifgen, a hometown hero and Culinary Institute of America grad. Formerly of Union Bear and The Office, he’s currently manning the stoves at Dallas institution Cafe Pacific and packing a must-visit list of restaurant recommendations under his culinary belt.
Naturally, we tapped the chef to reveal where he’s going to eat and drink. And, most importantly, we found success in getting him to unveil what makes his native food city so world class.
PA Eats: As a Dallas chef, how would you define the food scene in Dallas, Texas?
John Kleifgen: Dallas has a very eclectic smorgasbord of dining options! We might be known as a steak town, and we do have plenty of great beef, but we also have great options for everything from French comfort food to sushi to world class fine dining.
What makes it so special and unique when compared to other cities around the country?
What sets us apart (or what I would make sure a visitor doesn’t miss) is great Mexican (both Tex-Mex and authentic—which are not the same thing!) and, of course, barbecue!
If you were to organize a progressive dinner through Dallas for one night only, what five restaurants would have to make the cut?
Can I have the whole day? We’ll start with breakfast at Crossroads on Walnut Hill for sticky buns and coffee, but if the line is too long, we’ll head down the road to Cindi’s on Royal & Central for pancakes and waffles. I’ll probably be getting a pastrami and tongue on rye to save for later.
Lunch will be in Deep Ellum at Pecan Lodge. I’m sure somebody will try to convince you to get the beef rib (which is ridiculously good), but I’m having brisket. Lots and lots of brisket, with no sauce, no pickles, no onions—nothing. Just brisket.
Hopefully we will have parked far away, ’cause we’re going to need to walk this off. We’ll head to Trinity Groves for some mid-afternoon cocktails at Chino Chinatown. It might be five o’clock or not, but it’s hotter than hell here, need to cool off. ‘Beg Steal or Borrow,’ their play on an old fashioned, for me, and I’ll probably try to sneak in an order of edamame. And duck fat fried rice. And probably an elote. And one of those chicken lollipop dishes chef Uno Immanivong does so well.
While we’re there, you’ve got to try the Kate-y Trail Mix Bar at Kate Weiser’s chocolate shop. I think she’s selling crack and should be behind bars—chocolate bars. With nougat. But until she gets caught, she’s brilliant.
And for dinner?
I can’t believe you’d still want dinner after all this, but my go-to is Neighborhood Services. Cool spot, great cocktails, service is stellar and I’ve never had less than an awesome meal. The menu changes too often to plan on what I’ll have, but the pork chop I had there a couple of weeks ago was phenomenal.
If we’re still on our feet, we can try to make it to Proof + Pantry. Anything Julian Pagan and Josh Hendrix pours has always been gold. Seriously, I’ll drink anything they put in a glass. And the bone marrow there is pretty stellar.
By this time I’m probably in such a food and bourbon coma that I’m barely able to tell Uber where I want to go. But if I’m able to mutter the words Standard Pour or Windmill Lounge, then that’s where we’ll go. And, assuming either of us is still alive, we’ve got to go to Fuel City for late-night tacos and elotes!
Continuing to tap you as our tour guide, during our recent visit, we were particularly intrigued by the arts and music culture of Deep Ellum. Why is this Dallas neighborhood such a fan favorite?
There’s always a lot going on there and it’s a good mix of old favorites and new ventures. Deep Ellum has something for everybody!
What is your number one bar stop there, on any given night?
Adair’s Saloon is a great place for a burger and cheap beer with great music and a shuffleboard table. Twilite Lounge (sic) is a cool new neighborhoodie (not sic) type bar. The Double Wide around the corner is great for loud live music.
Alright, let’s get a plug for your current kitchen stomping grounds. What makes Cafe Pacific so notable?
Cafe Pacific opened in 1980, we just celebrated 34 years! Chad Kelley (the executive chef) has done a phenomenal job there, updating a Dallas institution.
Explore Kelley and Kleifgen’s menu here and never—ever—skip their iconic pepper-crusted Allen Bros.’ steak accented with cognac demi glace.
Meet more Dallas chefs from PA Eats’s recent Dallas Dish Trip: Daniel Pittman of LUCK and Uno Immanivong of Chino Chinatown.
- Cafe Pacific Photo: Cafe Pacific
- Remaining Photography: Alexandra Whitney Photography
- Chef John Kleifgen Photo: Steven Doyle/CravedFW
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