The quickest way to experience Germany is not to hop on a plane, but to drive south on the Route 1 “autobahn” into Maryland. It’s true. We recently road-tripped to an authentic German restaurant called Prost, which is located in a non-descript brick single-floor building along the Jacob Tome Memorial Highway in Port Deposit, Maryland.
When we stepped inside, we found ourselves in a German-style beer hall, with booths and tables filled—some with families, others with boisterous groups of beer-mug-clinking friends. Waitresses in traditional dirndls hustled by carrying giant plates of bratwurst and spratzel, and lederhosen-clad busboys cleared tables.
We had made a reservation and were escorted to a table for six in the back, where we could take in the whole remarkable scene. A table to our right held about 12 folks celebrating a birthday by hoisting glasses of Heffe Weizen. An accordionist roamed the aisles playing “Roll Out the Barrel” and other traditional tunes. His accordion was routed through the speaker system so when he made his way into the beer garden in the back of the restaurant we could still listen.
Prost has quite an extensive beer list, and I chose to sample a flight of Germany’s finest. Kostritzer, Bitburger, Warsteiner, HB Dunkel, HB Original and HB Weisse were all lined up on my paddle, and I sipped my way through them during dinner. The Kostritzer, a dark malty Schwarzbier, was my favorite in the end.
For an appetizer, we chose to share two plates of Fliegende Schweinchen, tender ham hocks that fell off the bone. I’ve never eaten such succulent ham. The menu had German classics such as Sauerbraten, Weiner Schnitzel vom Schwein, Bratwurst and Weisswurst and gave full descriptions in English so diners can make well-informed choices. Side dishes offered included sauerkraut, dumplings, soft pretzels and spatzle.
For my entree, I ordered Rindsrouladen, two delicious beef rolls filled with a spicy mustard, bacon, onions and pickles. I was full from just looking at this massive plate. The beef was served with the most a surprisingly sweet red cabbage. The two massive dumplings—one a potato dumpling and the other a bread dumpling—were pure comfort food.
The traditionally dressed hostess who seated us stopped to check in and we learned that she was the co-owner. Renate Baruschka grew up in Bavaria and had a dream to open an authentic German restaurant here in the United States. Her husband, Richard, runs the kitchen while she runs the front of the house, greeting customers and overseeing the exemplary waitstaff.
My friend Laura was ahead of the game, having half of her dinner wrapped up so she could save space for dessert. Our waitress stopped by with a dessert tray and Laura chose a Bavarian chocolate mousse that looked decadent. I, however, had no room remaining for such a treat, though I did save room for a pint of Schwarzbier before we left.
Throughout the meal, I vowed to plan a return trip with my family next summer when my younger son, a dedicated foodie, turns 21. The idea of all four of us clinking our giant beer mugs together in celebration is too good to pass up. Prost!
Prost German Restaurant is located at 1195 Jacob Tome Memorial Highway in Port Deposit, MD. For reservations, call (443) 731-1889.
- Photography: Jim Breslin
One Comment