Chef Jose Garces is rolling out some major changes for “season two” of Volvér, his 35-seat Center City eatery known for its exclusive, delectable and pricey 8- and 12-course tasting menus.
PA Eats recently attended a press night celebrating aspects of the restaurant’s new seasonal menu, which is inspired by Garces’ culinary travels around the world. Plates are created using the region’s finest meat, poultry, seafood and produce—much of which is grown on Garces’ Bucks County farm.
Dinner was an absolute treat from start to finish, due much in part to the exceptional service from the entire Garces staff. We have never before experienced the level of professionalism that Volvér offers. Pashminas and cell phone chargers were made available upon arrival, and there wasn’t a second that went by that my napkin wasn’t perfectly folded or my chair pushed in.
The evening only got more lavish from there. Wine pairings were chosen for six of the eight courses by house sommelier Gordana Kostovski, who isn’t just knowledgeable about her trade, but extraordinarily passionate. She spoke to each wine choice with an amount of vigor that got me antsy to sip it even though she was not yet done presenting it—or, in one case, pouring it. Whoops.
Read on for a breakdown of each absolutely delicious course and the wine that was served with it:
First Course: The first course included a trio of mini appetizers: First, there was a beautiful beet meringue filled with Siberian sturgeon caviar and smoked crème fraiche. This bite was nicknamed the “purple Hershey Kiss” by my fellow diners because of its familiar shape, but the taste could not be beat. Next a French onion soup tartlet topped with gruyere cheese was served, which was really the tiniest (and most delicious) bowl of French onion soup in the world. Last, a new take on the classic tomato bread/pan con tomate made with sourdough, uni and lardo. Paired with: Paul Clouet – Brut Selection from Champagne, France.
Second Course: Second, we were served a ceviche dish named for a coastal town in Ecuador, Salinas. The course featured three different raw fishes and was presented on a giant clam shell filled with tomato gelee, popped sorghum and flowering cilantro. It was difficult to eat this course, and not because of the taste … the taste was divine. The presentation, however, was almost too pretty to eat. The flowering cilantro garnish was hand-placed on each dish, turning the plate into a true work of art. Paired with Gramercy Cellars – Rose Cinsault/Grenache/Syrah from Columbia Valley, Washington.
Third Course: Next, we noshed on an skillfully presented egg custard topped with teriyaki glazed-short rib cubes, shiitake mushroom and pickled pearl onions. The dish was topped with puffed nori, a garnish that Garces revealed took several tries before perfecting.
Fourth Course: The fourth course was titled Carabinero, a name inspired by Chile’s national police force. The dish included a giant prawn, which Garces said is one of the biggest in the world. The impressive shellfish was served with four different sauces, each inspired by a color on the Carabineros’ iconic uniform. I will never be able to eat a plain old regular shrimp again. I can’t go back. Paired with Domaine Du Petit Metris – Chenin Blanc from Savennieres, France.
Fifth Course: Next, we were served a carbonara pasta made with creamy cauliflower noodles, guanciale cheese and black pepper crumble and topped with a tiny quail egg. Cauliflower was ground up and used in the pasta dough, making for a totally unique flavor and texture. The quail egg, which Garces recommended breaking over the dish before eating, provided beautiful flavor and color to the dish. Paired with: Partida Creus Vinel-Lo – Garnatxa/Ull de Perdiu/Sumoll/Queixal De Llop/Samso/Garrut/Trepat from Massis De Bonastre, Catalunya, Spain.
Sixth Course: Our final savory course was a small, melt-in-your-mouth piece of John Dory fish wrapped in cabbage and served with a trio of sides: a roasted potato crema, hazelnuts and a dollop of caviar. The dish was finished with a swirl of brown butter jus. The fish was flaky and fabulous, and you really can’t go wrong with potato crema in my book. A+.
Seventh Course: The first dessert course, a pineapple granita, was the perfect mix of frozen coconut and granola. The chilly dish, reminiscent of a pina colada, provided a great transition into dessert, while sticking with Garces’ overall vision. Paired with: Evolucio – Furmint Late Harvest from Tokaji, Hungary.
Eighth Course: The final course was composed of buttermilk panna cotta topped with frozen rhubarb and spring herbs. The refreshing dessert was crisp to taste, but definitely toed the line between sweet and savory. The fresh garden herbs gave this final course a truly dynamic and unexpected flavor profile. Paired with: Elio Perrone Bigaro – Brachetto/Moscato from Piedmont, Italy.
Garces has caught some flack in the media for the restaurant’s exorbitant price point. After this meal, however, I can say with full honesty that a Volvér dinner is more than a meal. It is complete and total experience, one that I feel lucky to have had and hope to repeat in the future.
Eight-course tastings are priced at $95 per person, with 12-course tasting available at $150 per person. Both menus have an optional beverage pairing, curated by sommelier and beverage director Gordana Kostovski. Find Volvér at 300 S. Broad St. in Philadelphia; phone: (215) 670-2303.
- Photography: Laura Hibbs McKenzie
