Buttery:—adjective
like, containing, or spread with butter.
resembling butter, as in smoothness or softness of texture.
I seem to get more than my share of writing assignments from PA Eats describing new local bakeries and cafes. I’m not exactly sure why—unless you consider the fact that when I hear the words flaky, chocolate or house-made jams, I raise my arm to volunteer like a middle school student who has all the answers. Waving my hand frantically and “ooh-ing” are definitely involved.
That being said, I had the privilege to sit down with the effervescent, articulate and caring couple/owners who are the driving force behind this nontraditional cafe concept. I was enamored with the way they politely finished each other’s sentences, watching one another intently and respectfully as they described the process that brought them to where they are today.
The Journey
Malvern Buttery is John and Silenia Rhoads. Together for 10 years (after they met and fell in love in New York City), they were partially inspired while living for a time on Bainbridge Island in the Puget Sound near Seattle. “We were on an island,” Silenia said with emphasis. “We fell in love with that sense of natural community. We wanted to expand on that feeling here in Malvern. It’s a very small, very walkable town. The people here are so warm and supportive.”
Main Line transplant, entrepreneur and husband John added, “We wanted to establish a place where people could go and hang out without having to go to a restaurant. A place where they could gather to converse and enjoy sandwiches or baked goods and rich flavor-filled coffees while relaxing.”
Residing in Malvern for the past four years has provided the opportunity for John, Silenia and their three beautiful and active young children, Carolina, 6, Jay, 4, and Lucia, 2, to cultivate roots and maintain community and professional relationships that were important to include in their first-time adventure into the world of food.
On the Outside
Wrapped snugly within the new-ish looking East Side Flats on King Street in the heart of downtown Malvern, the large four-story, red-brick building is anchored with attractive awnings and large sidewalk-to-ceiling reflective windows. A freestanding wildflower “pop-up” garden placed whimsically in front of the cafe’s entrance uses weathered rain barrels, ceramic pots and benches, while a folksy hand-painted sign heralds the house-made treats within.
I immediately fell in love with the look and feel of Malvern Buttery. Apparently, everyone else is also falling for this fresh-faced, sustainably run cafe that recently held its grand opening on Friday, July 10, to a celebration with an estimated 200-plus local and press folks. Heaped baker’s trays of smiles, laughter and curiosity were served ardently alongside mini-scones, cookies, fruit-covered custards and crusty, warm oven-baked breads.
On the Inside
Buttery’s cavernous loft-like interior could at first glance be perceived as cool, distant and industrial; however, the couple’s designer vision to include sectioned soft “sink-in” leather sofas; reclaimed wood, hand-hewn tables and carts; robin’s egg blue-and-white checked chairs; and glazed aluminum benches and stools everywhere creates engaging intimate gathering spots.
John favors the idea of the communal picnic-like tables, reminiscent of European markets, which are gathered on one side. Buttery’s trademark, soft vintage-green coffee cups, saucers and accents are placed subtly throughout. Solid-glass vases bursting with sunflowers and daisies picked fresh from the couple’s own garden are also signature detailed touches. The duo has created a perfect setting for chatting with friends, sipping herbal-infused teas while the kids color or catching up with Facebook friends while perusing Buttery’s lists of chalkboard- or parchment-inscribed “foodities” of the day.
The Concept
What sets this cafe apart from most is the overwhelming feeling of openness, yet inclusiveness. You are “one with the food” here. Even the coffee area is “reversed” under the professional supervision of former Philter barista Laura Czarnecki, enhancing the commorancy experience by eliminating a counter between the lattes, cappuccinos and the customer. Stocked with the rich-flavored coffees of Counter Culture as well as Silk Road teas, I stood right next to Laura as she formulated the perfect cortado (espresso and steamed milk).
The unpretentious, free-standing open kitchen/work area was surrounded with several friendly bustling Buttery crew members who were rolling, chopping, kneading and punctuating conversations with an occasional cloud of flour being thrown to the table. I seriously wanted to jump in and be involved! John feels that “good food being made from scratch is a beautiful thing to see” and believes the walls between food and people need to be minimal. Coupled with Silenia’s down-to-earth personality and sincere demeanor, this refreshing retreat is truly one-of-a-kind.
The Goods
There are no snobbish twine-tied, pre-printed menus here. French Canadian Chef Kevin LaForest promises to consistently produce daily surprises with seasonal ingredients while keeping newbie standards, like their increasingly popular sticky buns, at the forefront.
Utilizing local organic resources for produce and meats and dairy products from the likes of Down to Earth Farm, Lancaster Farm Fresh and Oasis Bird-in-Hand, Chef LaForest delivers delectable dishes seemingly on the fly. Included in his growing repertoire of wholesome plates is house-made multigrain toast topped with whipped herb goat cheese and finished with a decadent bacon marmalade. Pulled-chicken sandwiches, quinoa burgers, baked egg dishes, quiches, scones, baguettes, croissants and distinct plate-sized pretzels round out selections for the day.
To the Future
When questioned, John and Silenia tossed about possible catering opportunities, local events and even classes or guest speakers and presentations about food sustainability, but right now the focus is on maintaining that homespun community feel. They insist that customers don’t pay for meals until they are ready to leave, encouraging more interaction and relaxation.
Finally, I asked the youthful owners (who, for the record, showed no outward evidence of stress or sleep deprivation) where they found their stamina. Silenia beamed, “It’s the passion. The adrenaline from that. Outside of this space in most social situations, I see myself normally as an introvert. But here, at Buttery, it’s like our child and the energy just comes naturally.”
That passion and energy are tangible here at Malvern Buttery. So come in, sit back, grab a fresh fruit-with-white-chocolate scone and a cardamom-infused lemonade and begin planning your own journey to connect with others while solving the problems of the world. Or, just have a snack.
Malvern Buttery is located at 233 E. King St. in the Eastside Flats building; phone: (610) 296-2534. Open weekdays 6:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m., Saturdays 7:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. and Sundays 7:30 a.m.–4 p.m. Free parking is available across the street and in the garage next door.
John and Silenia Rhoads and scone with coffee photo: Ed Williams; all other photos courtesy of Malvern Buttery.
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