The Makings of a Menu at P.J. Whelihan’s

Ever wonder what it takes for a dish to make it on the menu at a multi-location restaurant? Who designs the dish? Who taste-tests it? How does the recipe ultimately wind up on the roster, where you, the patron, can enjoy it?

PJW Test Kitchen

At the P.J.W. Restaurant Group, which encompasses the P.J. Whelihan’s, The Pour House, The Chophouse and Treno Pizza Bar brands, a dish goes through a vigorous—and sometimes very opinionated—test kitchen session where it’s dissected and critiqued until it’s found worthy of a future menu.

Recently, we received an invitation to pay a visit to the restaurant group’s commercial test kitchen, which is situated above the Treno Pizza Bar concept in Westmont, New Jersey. With a goal of discovering the makings of a menu, we filed inside the swanky second-floor kitchen among several company heavy-hitters: P.J.W. Restaurant Group’s COO Jim Fris, Beverage Manager Jake Karley, Director of Operations in New Jersey Michael Perro and Director of Operations in Pennsylvania Christopher Webb. This esteemed team tests dishes every week, and we were lucky enough to join them for an exclusive, behind-the-scenes tasting.

The restaurant group’s test kitchen is styled like a demonstration setup. P.J.W.’s culinary director, Rich Friedrich, prepared each potential dish in an open kitchen before our viewing eyes as we sat facing him at countertop seating. After he served each contender, we thoughtfully tasted it, jotted down feedback on our tasting sheets and, once everyone was ready, opened up the discussion about the concoction (what worked, what didn’t, what could make it better).

If a consensus is made among the tasting panel, it’s approved to run as a two-month special within a specific brand. Over time, if the specials perform well, they are then moved to the permanent menu. For example, P.J. Whelihan’s house menu now features 96 dishes—many of which, including the bestsellers, were shopped first as a special. The limited-time offering menu, which we were critiquing the day we visited, features seven menu items.

For the day’s testing, we focused on P.J. Whelihan’s—which has Chester County locations in Downingtown and West Chester—and shared our opinions about dishes that would make the cut come August and September.

What did we devour that day? What was approved by the panel of sharp palates? And, most importantly, what can you try at P.J. Whelihan’s through September? Full recap below.

Frito Tots

Frito Tots

Our tasting review: Our first bite of the day was the fun-loving, five-alarm beef and chorizo chili-topped tater tot appetizer, one finished with jalapeño cheese sauce, cilantro lime crema and crushed Fritos. The overall consensus was that the ultimate bar snack possessed attractive texture and flavors but could use even more Fritos (they were called “Fritos Tots” after all).

Did they make the cut? Yes. Mild adjustments were made to the starter, including nixing red onions as part of its topping. More Fritos were added to the creation. Available now for an attractive $5.99!

Jersey Tomato & Chicken Salad

Jersey Tomato Salad

Our tasting review: With its mix of grilled chicken with in-season, local tomatoes, roasted corn, bacon, hard-boiled egg and red pepper ranch, this salad was one we all wanted to love. The idea of it was the epitome of summer flavors. However, through our tasting, we agreed it needed more oomph and creativity.

Did it make the cut? No. Instead, P.J.’s shopped a second salad in its place, a grilled chicken salad with goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes—which is now available on the specials menu.

Watermelon Chicken Salad

Watermelon Salad

Our tasting review: Refreshing and riding a vibrant roller coaster of flavors, this salad paired the sweetness of watermelon with the spiciness of a chile-based dressing. Add in feta cheese, cucumber, grilled chicken and red onion, and you have yourself a satisfying summer salad

Did it make the cut? Absolutely! Catch it on the menu through September.

Cheddar Jack-Stuffed Burger

Cheddar Stuffed Burger, PJ Whelihans

Our tasting review: Consider the silence that fell over the tasting panel as they bit into this burger a delicious indication of how well-received it was. Two 3.2-ounce patties were stuffed with a generous serving of cheddar-jack cheese and loaded with a heap of guacamole, pickled red onions and a smear of jalapeno pesto. The combination of flavors was vibrant and bold, and the sesame bun just made the experience texturally better. We could’ve had two! (Okay, we’re being gluttonous. But we loved it that much.)

Did it make the cut? Sure did! Available now.

Also tested: the Smoked Cheddar Bacon Burger, which was not as strong as the above.

Dogfish Head Bratwurst & Pretzel Sandwiches

Dogfish Head Brats

Our tasting review: Dogfish Head Brewery’s brand of beer-poached bratwursts are already crowd favorites, so it makes sense that P.J. Whelihan’s, with its strong beer program, offers such a product in house. The mini sandwiches were built on jalapeno-cheddar pretzel bun bases and loaded with New York–inspired pushcart onions and horseradish mustard. The preparation and key ingredients were executed sharply, although discussions were made about dialing in the length of the roll-to-bratwurst ratio so the brats would arrive cozy in the bun.

Did it make the cut? Yes—and the dish is perfect to nibble on during game-watching nights too. 

Sriracha Chicken Tacos

Sriracha Tacos

Our tasting review: With the fish tacos one of P.J. Whelihan’s top sellers, a taco variation typically finds its place on the specials menu. Here, chef Friedrich threw sriracha pulled chicken into a flour tortilla with sliced avocado, tomatillo salsa and sliced radish. The composition was fun and fresh; if anything, it just needed the chicken to provide a stronger sriracha impact.

Did it make the cut? Yes, though with slight modification. The pulled chicken ended up being swapped out for a crispy breaded chicken—which is better able to hold the sriracha sauce.

Salted Caramel Crunch Skillet Cookie

Salted Caramel Skillet Cookie

Our tasting review: Honestly, how could you go wrong with a ultra-soft, served-warm salted caramel cookie? Though not more needs to be said beyond that, the rich delight also folded in browned butter, white chocolate, pretzel bites and Heath toffee pieces. We considered this the “kitchen sink” of desserts.

Did it make the cut? Absolutely, with a strong focus made to ensure that the cookie hits the guests’ tables still warm. Available for a slim $5.49.

After the spirited tasting panel and hard-driving discussion, it’s clear that the P.J.W. Restaurant Group puts the utmost thought and care into what dishes they launch within their restaurants. Swing by any of the area-wide P.J. Whelihan’s locations in Pennsylvania and New Jersey and give the limited-time-only dishes your own taste-test. If you’re lucky—and they become as popular as we think they will—they’ll soon find a permanent place on the menu.

Find P.J. Whelihan’s locally in Downingtown, at 853 E. Lancaster Ave., phone: (610) 873-1311; and in West Chester, at 1347 Wilmington Pike, phone: (610) 235-4200.

  • Photography: Amy Strauss