Gabriel Rubilar, Borderland Vineyard winemaker extraordinaire, has a deep passion for his craft. Born and raised in Argentina, he started on his journey to become a winemaker way back in high school. He began his education by studying chemistry and agronomy—the science and technology of producing and using plants for food, fuel, fiber and land reclamation. He then continued his education at Universidad Tecnológica Nacional, where he earned degrees in winemaking and food and beverages as well as a degree in enology—the chemistry and biology of wine.
Gabriel got his first big break in the wine business when he started started working at one of the most famous wineries of Mendoza, FeCoVitA. FeCoVitA is a wine cooperative, with more than 5,000 wine producers in 29 cooperatives. By working together, FeCoVitA gets the wines of their small scale producers onto the tables of both Argentinians as well as those outside the country.
Gabriel started his career at FeCoVitA working in the lab focusing on the microbiology and analysis of the wines with the goal of ensuring the product’s quality prior to bottling. He also gained experience working for several more wineries as a quality controller, assistant winemaker, junior winemaker and as a consultant.
Gabriel always looked to gain more experience and wanted to travel to learn about producing wines in countries other than Argentina. In 2010, he took part in an exchange program and had the opportunity to help conduct the yearly harvest as an intern at Lynmar Estate Winery in Santa Rosa, California, as well as act as a junior winemaker there.
After his stint in California, Gabriel returned to Mendoza to work as an assistant winemaker at Trivento Winery—a premium wine location. It was there that he met some wine producers from Paradocx Vineyard in Chester County, Pa., and decided to follow his dream to travel more and learn more about winemaking in different regions. He became Paradocx’s winemaker, and eventually he became Borderland Vineyard’s consultant winemaker, too.
Now that he has been making wine in the United States for several years, Gabriel took some time to reflect on his experiences here and share what is special about making wine in Southeastern Pennsylvania.
PA Eats: What is your favorite thing about living in the United States and making wine in southern Chester County?
Gabriel Rubilar: I love all the changes in seasons here. Summer is beautiful, and in fall there are so many trees and leaves changing color. I also love a challenge. It is a real challenge to grow quality grapes here. The conditions are difficult to grow in, but I like to use my education and experience to help the vineyard grow the best grapes we can.
Pennsylvania is in the process of building a reputation of creating great wine, so our job is to contribute with that goal, a goal that is around the corner if we keep working hard.
What is your favorite style of wine to make? How about to drink?
I love to make young, unoaked white wines because this is where I have the opportunity to help or guide the wine to express and reach its full potential of its terroir. No oak, no sweetening, no aging, just “the raw product ” of the vineyard. In my knowledge, Landenberg’s terroir is extraordinary different and unique. I try to enhance those unique characteristic in our wines. My favorite wine to drink is Cabernet Sauvignon.
Borderland recently released its first wine made exclusively with grapes grown at Borderland Vineyard. Are there more plans to produce wine strictly using Borderland grapes?
Of course! We currently have a Cabernet aging in French oak barrels. It has been evolving in the barrels, and the aging will create a balance between the wine and the oak. It should have mild oak notes that won’t cover or hide flavors. We are hoping to bottle it in July, and then it will spend six months in the bottles. We still have 1½ years until its release! Making quality wines takes time.
What are your goals as a winemaker for Borderland? Are there any new vintages expected?
My goals as a winemaker are to continue to grow as a professional, learn more about this beautiful land of the Landenberg terroir and help to create unique and different wines for our customer to enjoy and identify with. Pennsylvania is and has been on its way to becoming known as a land of great wines.
We have made a Malbec as a small-batch experiment to see how the vines reacted to weather and the soil terroir. I’m pretty excited because it tastes pretty good. It reminds me of some Malbecs, but it isn’t a typical Mendoza Malbec. It’s a starting point to think about growing more of these grapes in the future. We also made a Sauvignon Blanc and will bottle it for the first time. It should be ready in July.
What are your plans for the future? Are you planning to stay in the United States, or will you return to Argentina or someplace else?
I have had a great experience here. I met my wife, got married here and now have two daughters. This is now my second home and I plan to stay here. It has been difficult, but what we are learning and applying to the vineyard makes it all worth it. We try to be humble and grow a great product, and I am trying to make a name for myself and for Borderland following the vision of Karen Anderson and Kurt Kalb.
For information about special releases and upcoming events, visit Borderland on Facebook. Tastings and wines are available at the vineyard by appointment only from January–March. To make an appointment, call (215) 436-9154 or via email.
Borderland Vineyard is located at 332 Indiantown Rd. in Landenberg.
- Photos: Courtesy of Gabriel Rubilar
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