The most colorful spots on the food landscape are usually not the trendsetting hot spots. They are almost never the newest, most-talked-about forays. Rather, they are the comfortable, inviting convivial locales that highlight singular dishes for which their reputations are built. They are often the well-worn sweater that is predictably comfortable, goes well with just about any occasion and brings a gentle smile. Dotted throughout Delaware’s three counties, such genteel places exist. Some are more contemporary than other; all are predictably solid performers with a flair for consistent, really good kitchen mojo.

Tacumbo

A paleteria—popsicle stand—in the Stanton area of Northern New Castle county works ice cream and frozen-fruit wizardry. The ridiculously wide array of icy-fruit and frozen-custard popsicles is more than a justifiable reason to stray from any diet and will make the trip to this real-feel, real deal. All made in-house, this paleteria offers classic frozen-cream flavors like strawberry, guava, pineapple and coffee as well as the more novel rice pudding, tamarind and corn. Yes, corn. 3322 Old Capitol Trail, Wilmington, (302) 999-7263

La Fia

A craftsman’s honest touch brings this bistro to Wilmington’s forefront as an outstanding dining option. Chef Brian Sikora and team are wowing devotees with rabbit ragu and pappardelle, sweet potato agnolloti and lunchtime’s cubano jammed full of slow-roasted pork. The comfortable-market face of La Fia is a gentle respite from center-city commotion. Sikora is making a lot of people happy, and the expansion across Market Street is evident with Bakery now and The Merchant later in February. 421 N. Market St., Wilmington, (302) 543-5574

Ioannoni’s

This really is one of those sandwich places that makes travel worthwhile. Indescribably flavorful, heaping subs are the icon of this neighborhood institution. The breaded chicken cutlets are given big-on-flavor treatments, like piled with broccoli rabe and sharp provolone, or the milano with roasted red peppers and mozzarella. Sweetly dripping roast pork and slow-cooked beef are also very viable options for lunch that add to the cheesesteak and cold-sub options. 624 E. Basin Rd., New Castle, (302) 322-5000

Where Pigs Fly

This spot is a BBQ museum or, more accurately, a relic. A delicious, delicious relic. Tabletop decor and aged wall adornments to match, go for the food and not for special date night. Rather, this spot brings out the best in uncontrolled gluttony. Start with a loaf of fried onion rings. There is nothing “gently fried” about this species of appetizer. Pure, fiery onion amorousness. Follow-up with shredded, pulled bbq chicken blanketed in a generous steep of smoke, pulled from the bone and served with classic, picnic-style sides. Smoke-laden, animal feasting. There is nothing pretty about a drip-stained shirt or sauce-embedded cuticles, but a food-swollen gut, tucked deep with good barbecue, is a happy gut. 617 E. Loockerman St., Dover, (302) 678-0586

Kaisy’s Delights

The beach has plenty of eclectic offerings to jimmy the interest of travelers and locals alike. Seafood aplenty, petite portions and fun, touristy food abound. Kaisy’s is a different breed altogether. The kaiserschmarren—or kaisy, for short—is a mess of French-toasted-ish pancake-waffle pastry. And it is staggeringly good. Description alludes, the pastry is worth traversing the traffic-snarled beach town. Comforting service and uber-exemplary La Colombe coffee flow freely. 70 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, (302) 212-5360

Po’ Boys Creole & Fresh Catch

So rarely does somebody get food singularly spot on, but such is the case for Po’ Boys. With mission, tenacity and chutzpah, the kitchen crew keeps the focus. Big, exhaustingly big, flavors are the rule. And that is refreshing. In an age of restaurants trying to be everything to everybody, Po’ Boys take on gumbo is spicy, rich, complex and genuine. Flourish kept to a minimum, the talent of the kitchen shines in making honest food by highlighting the flavor of the food rather than putting on a show of silly kitchen misadventures. Giving due respect to their namesake, the po’ boy has real spirit; it’s a comforting take on the creole sandwich with piquant remoulade and exactly the right bread. “Make gumbo, not war!” 900 Palmer St., Milton, (302) 684-0890

Helen’s Sausage House

Short on hours, long on lines. Because everybody needs to eat amazing sausage on white bread. Seriously. 4866 Korean War Veterans Memorial Hwy., Smyrna, (302) 653-4200

• Photography: La Fia
• Photography: Ioannoni's
• Photography: Kaisy Delights
• Photography: Po' Boys Creole & Fresh Catch