I lived in Glen Mills from 1997–2006. At that time, finding a great place to dine out close to home was not an easy task. A few chain restaurants had popped up, but mostly my husband and I would venture into Media or West Chester (neither too far, but not really our own neighborhood) if we wanted a good meal at an independently owned and operated establishment.
In the time since I moved a little further west in Chester County, Glen Mills has experienced quite the building boom—restaurants included. I don’t head that way very often, so when I made a left onto Route 1 North headed to the recently opened Cask Bistro & Tap, I couldn’t believe my eyes. Some may call it suburban sprawl, but I was impressed. One of the reasons we moved was because even though I loved all of our open space, I hated having to drive 15+ minutes to get anywhere. It seems my problem with the area was solved.
When I walked into Cask Bistro & Tap, I was immediately taken in by the openness created by the soaring ceilings. Sunlight poured in through the large windows, creating a space that felt warm and welcoming. Even though Cask is quite large—it can seat 215 patrons—it doesn’t feel cavernous because of the smart use of walls that create distinct dining areas within the restaurant. With a menu focusing on French-Mediterranean cuisine and a style reminiscent of a 1940s French bistro, Cask is poised to be the type of restaurant that can fill the dining void I had experienced—a real neighborhood gem in the making.
Cask is owned and operated by Chef Jason McHugh and his wife, Natali Shiri, the couple behind Desert Rose in Media. This is a bit of a change for the couple, as Desert Rose seats just 38. How will they handle the increased number of diners? Chef McHugh explained, “I’m going to focus on fresh ingredients and consistency. Even though we might look like a big chain here, we are just a ‘mom and pop’ business. We are going to take what we know about quality food and service and ensure that it carries over into each dish that comes out of the kitchen.” If what I tasted is any indication, Chef McHugh has met his vision.
I started dinner with a scallop crudo, a dish that was a special for the evening. This dish was a textural and taste masterpiece. The thinly sliced scallops were slightly sweet and sufficiently chilled to create a cooling effect on a warm spring-like evening. Then I was hit with a hint of acidic preserved lemon and the crunch of crisp frisee. Each bite finished with a little bit of heat, courtesy of the pink peppercorns on the plate. If this dish was how I was starting my meal, I was prepared to be wowed.
Next I tried the cappellini and clams. As the plate hit my table, the smell of garlic and herbs immediately enveloped me. Although it might seem straightforward, this pasta plate was pretty special. Both the clams and pasta were perfectly cooked. Topped with a bit of confit lemon, herbed bread crumbs, pine nuts and a bit of thyme and chive in a cream sauce, this could have been a heavy dish, but it tasted quite light and fresh.
I finished my meal with the mussels cassoulet, a dish I could imagine ordering every time I walked through Cask’s doors. The tender mussels were removed from their shells, making them easy and less messy to eat. The cassoulet also had white beans, chorizo and a mirepoix of carrot, celery and onion. The roughly cut vegetables were still crisp, which added a nice freshness to the plate along with the fresh parsley and chives. The housemade crostini that came with the dish was crisp and buttery and held up nicely to my continued dunking in the dish.
Overall, I found Cask’s menu to be both approachable and affordable, especially considering the level of cooking coming out of the kitchen. Chef McHugh, who will be returning to his Desert Rose kitchen soon, will be leaving Cask’s kitchen in the able hands of his chef de cuisine, Craig Bonnett, who spent several years working under Chef Georges Perrier at Le Bec-Fin and Brasserie Perrier. McHugh will visit often, though.
One of Cask’s highlights comes from the second half of their name, Tap. The large bar sits as a centerpiece in the main dining room and currently has 17 taps of craft beer with a focus on local. During my visit, there were beers from West Chester’s Levante, Downingtown’s Victory, Media’s Sterling Pig and Aston’s 2SP on tap, among others. There is also an extensive bottle craft beer menu. Their wine program was also on point with 16 wines by the glass available, mostly from $7–$9 per glass.
Cask is perfect not only for romantic date nights but also for families, after-work happy hour and ladies who lunch. The large patio that seats 65 will be open in the warmer weather, too. Cask Bistro & Tap is the kind of restaurant I dreamt of when I lived in Glen Mills. It isn’t pretentious, it is unique but feels familiar and the kitchen is putting out a high level of food. I will be making the same drive, that I used to hate so many years ago, to find great locally owned restaurant food. But now, instead of heading away from Glen Mills, I will be heading straight to Cask Bistro & Tap.
Find Cask Bistro and Tap at 200 Town Centre Dr. in Glen Mills; phone: (484) 842-4201.
- Photos: Ronna Dewey
