I’ve been glued to my TV since the opening ceremony of the 2016 Summer Olympics last Friday night. And it isn’t just about the athletes. For me, it is all about Brazil. I called this enchanting land my home for two years when I was a Peace Corps volunteer. The stories flooding the airwaves and newspapers are truly capturing Brazil’s beauty and culture. Rio de Janeiro is one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited.
From Rio’s very own samba beat and the mountainous shadows of Sugar Loaf to the most beautiful beaches in the world, I am feeling what the Brazilians call saudades (pronounced sow-dadge-ehs), a profound and loving sense of nostalgia. So as I watch all of the cultural reporting about Brazilian music, dance and food, I wonder how I would navigate Rio today as a plant-based vegan? What would I eat in Rio? From street food to fine dining, how could I adapt traditional Brazilian foods and make them meat-free?
I turned to vegan chef and plant-based expert Fernando Peralta of Bryn Mawr’s Vgë Café for an answer. A native of Rio, Peralta not only knows the path of all of the Olympic events but also truly understands how to take his native fare and create healthier, meat-free options.
According to Peralta, “Eating vegan in Rio is very challenging. Most places that serve beans will have cooked them with meat or meat stock. Brazilians like sandwiches, but most will have meat and mayo. Vegan condiment alternatives are very hard to come by in Brazil.” Fernando explained that he is often confined to salads and vegetable sides or pasta with tomato sauce topped with fresh veggies.
One of my favorite dishes from Brazil is the traditional feijoada, which is essentially a black bean stew. Traditional black beans are very common in Brazil and used every day in cooking. However, the dish changes regionally. In Bahia, which is a state north of Rio, feijoada is served with red kidney beans and lots of veggies. This iron-rich and delicious dish is also served with a side of rice and topped with farofa, which is a ground and toasted cassava mixture.
Add a salad, and you have the perfect meal. Interestingly, salads are served on platters upon which the vegetables are decoratively arranged. Vinegar and olive oil may be typical dressings.
Fernando generously provided the delicious recipe for black bean stew that is served at Vgë Café. It is easy to make and richly nutrient-dense.
Black Bean Stew (Feijoada)
Preparing the Beans
- 1 lb. black beans (dry)
- 1 tsp. garlic powder (for soaking)
Seasonings for the Beans
- 1 tsp. cumin
- 1 tsp. coriander
- 1 tsp. salt (adjust to taste)
- 4 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 tbsp. Bragg’s Aminos
- 5 sprigs cilantro, chopped
- 1 whole dried date
- Soak beans overnight (or for at least three hours) in water and garlic powder.
- Drain and add the beans to a deep pot, then cover the beans with water an inch above the beans. Add seasonings (excluding the date) and stir. Bring it to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook for about three hours.
Veggie Prep
- 4 oz. onion, diced
- 2 oz. tomato, diced
- 2 oz. carrot, diced
- 2 oz. celery, diced
- 2 oz. sweet potatoes, diced
- 2 oz. pepper, diced
Place diced veggies on a parchment lined baking sheet and roast at 375 degrees until tender. Alternatively, vegetables can be dry sautéed (without oil). The vegetables do not require any seasonings.
Final Preparation
- After the beans are fully cooked and the broth is thick, scoop out 8 oz. of beans and water and add into a blender. Add the date to give a bit of sweetness. Adjust with water, if needed. Blend until pureed.
- Return the blended mixture to the pot and let it cook for another 15 minutes on a low flame. Add the roasted veggies to the beans and stir.
- Place cooked rice in a bowl and cover with feijoada. Adorn with kale.
- Enjoy a hearty meal!
According to Fernando, the key to a well-cooked bean stew is to cook it slowly. I’ve made it in the slow cooker, which also yields a thick and tasty dish.
***
Fernando told me that now that the Olympics have started, the Brazilian population is enjoying the games and taking pride in hosting the event. He reported, “Traffic is problematic, but many residents have taken vacation during the games, which has alleviated any traffic.” Even Fernando’s parents are enjoying the games!
As for Fernando, he’s busy here in Bryn Mawr making delicious and healthy plant-based foods. But I do hope he has the time to enjoy watching water polo. He shared that during high school, he was on his school’s water polo team. Go, Team Brazil!
And me? I am busy listening to old-school Brazilian music as I make delicious Brazilian dishes for all to enjoy. Go, Team USA!
Find Vgë Café at 845 Lancaster Ave. in Bryn Mawr; phone: (610) 527-3091.
- Chef Fernando and Brazilian stew photos: Fernando Peralta
- Salad photo: Char Nolan
