by Kim Bingaman
If you enjoy modern food in a historic setting, several restaurants in and around Harrisburg provide experiences beyond simply dining.
Plan to stay a while and you’ll learn about these sites, their place in eras gone by and how the current revival of old locations contributes to the rich culture of today.
Char’s Restaurant at Tracy Mansion
Situated on the banks of the Susquehanna River, the 1.54 acre property spans North Front Street to Second Street. Built in 1913, the 30-room Tudor Revival structure belonged to industrialist David Tracy. It boasted hardwood floors, murals painted on the walls and an iron cage elevator. Converted into an hospital in 1951 and a mental health facility in the 1970s, the building was vacant when Susquehanna Real Estate purchased it in 2005.
Char Margaro purchased 33 percent of the mansion and established the current restaurant in 2012. In addition to being as environmentally friendly as possible—Char’s is powered by wind and heated with a geothermal system—the restaurant serves as a cultural hub to showcase fine sculptural art.
Chef Ron Canady’s French-inspired menu can be enjoyed in the dining room, library, gallery or bar. Ingredients are purchased from local, organic businesses with sustainable practices whenever possible. 1829 N. Front St., Harrisburg, (717) 213-4002
Greystone Public House
Jason Viscount serves contemporary rustic dishes from brunch to happy hour and on through dinner. In a collaboration with local farmers, Greystone Public house strives to provide fresh, quality products in a casual but upscale environment.
The original stone building was constructed in 1798 by one of Harrisburg’s earliest settlers, Godfrey Fritchey. The two-story structure, modeled after his former residence in Bavaria, stood in contrast to most of the small log houses built at the time. It was home to Godfrey, his wife Dorothy and their 13 children until 1805, when Fritchey obtained a liquor license and Fritchey’s Mansion became Fritchey’s Tavern. Fritchey operated the tavern until his death in 1821 and the property was passed to Dorothy. A copy of the original liquor license still hangs in the bar at the tavern. 2021 Colonial Rd., Harrisburg, (717) 829-9952
Millworks
Expect craft beer and a seasonal menu created with fresh, local ingredients at Millworks. With its own brewery, rooftop biergarten and an outdoor courtyard in addition to the main dining area, Millworks’ bohemian atmosphere is solidly established using reclaimed lumber salvaged from the original building.
Current owner Joshua Kesler estimates that almost 50 percent of the materials used in the construction of Millworks, formerly Stokes Millwork, were repurposed. Reclaimed wood from the mill was used in the tables, bar tops, window and door frames. Some 1920s-era lighting was taken from the Broad Street Market and the side of a Pennsylvania Railroad car hangs in the restaurant. The wood-fired oven was built with brick from an old Perry County farmhouse. The restaurant is on track to be added to the National Park Service Registry of Historic Places.
Millworks also houses 23 artist studios and three art galleries where their work is displayed, bringing together local food, beverages and art. 340 Verbeke St., Harrisburg, (717) 695-4888
Alfred’s Victorian Restaurant
Alfred’s Victorian Restaurant is known for northern Italian cuisine and tableside flambè. It’s also known as one of the most romantic restaurants in the Harrisburg area.
Alfred “Fred” Pellegrini purchased the Raymond-Young Mansion in 1969, creating a unique setting for dining simply by allowing the house’s fine craftsmanship to speak for itself. He repaired the original fixtures, polished the wood and cleaned the stained glass, opening for business in 1970. The back yard became the chef’s herb garden, and alfresco dining was added under the property’s magnolia tree.
On the National Register of Historic Places as the Charles Raymond House, the mansion and restaurant have been in Robin Pellegrini’s hands since 2011. She has continued to maintain and restore the property. 38 N. Union St., Middletown, (717) 944-5373
The Fire House Restaurant
The Fire House’s diverse menu is sure to provide a delicious option for anyone who visits, but the architecture and decor hold their own allure.
The oldest standing firehouse in Harrisburg and the second oldest in Pennsylvania, Hope Station No. 2 of the Harrisburg Hope Fire Company was constructed in 1871. It served as a firehouse until 1980 when the company relocated and the station was renovated to become the Fire House Restaurant.
In an Italianate style, clean lines and simple design remain features of the building. The original brickwork, sashing, window muntins and mullions and doors were kept through the restoration. 606 N. Second St., Harrisburg, (717) 234-6064
Union Canal House
Contemporary versions of classic dishes are on the menu at Union Canal House, one of the oldest standing buildings in the country.
The Union Canal House dates back to 1751. Soldiers from both the French and Indian and Revolutionary wars would move from their fort into the pub, known as “Ye Olde Tavern,” for a night out. It is believed the tunnel was also used to aid slaves escaping to freedom via the Underground Railroad. 107 S. Hanover St., Hershey, (717) 566-0054
- Char's at Tracy Mansion photo: Morgan Paese
- Millworks photos: Millworks
- Fire House photo: Dave Guy
