Hip to Be Square: Chef Robert “Bobby” Surdam Joins Philadelphia’s Square 1682

Down the crowded 17th Street corridor, a respite from the hustle and bustle of Center City Philadelphia can be found at Square 1682. Tucked away in the corner of the Kimpton Hotel Palomar Philadelphia, Square 1682 offers elevated American comfort food in an upscale setting.

The restaurant is pleased to announce that Chef Robert “Bobby” Surdam has taken over the helm at Square 1682’s kitchen. Surdam has extensive experience in both the Washington DC and Philadelphia restaurant industry. He has previously worked as chef de cuisine at Old City’s Red Owl Tavern, as well as at renowned DC restaurants such as Ashlar Restaurant and Bar at the Morrison House Hotel.

When asked for his vision for Square 1682 under his leadership, Surdan explains, “My philosophy has always been simple food done right, which is what you’ll see here. You’ll see a lot of stuff that people recognize and people can understand … [with] a little bit of a twist on it and … a little bit more flair.”

Surdam originally hails from Fairfax County, Virginia, and his Southern charm is evident in the cuisine (as well as in the “yes ma’ams” that pepper his speech). Southern-inflected dishes include the IPA Braised Pork Cheeks, served with creamy polenta, onion marmalade and pickled maitake, and the Lancaster Duck Breast, accompanied by a rosemary-potato galette, mustard greens and a roasted fig demi-glace.

Surdam himself says that “my favorite thing on the menu right now is the pork shank. It’s a very big plate, very bountiful with fried brussels sprouts and grits.” And indeed, the perfectly cooked pork, partnered with the towering stack of brussels sprouts and heaping pile of cheesy grits, makes a fine dish.

PA Eats also officially recommends the beef short ribs, which is the best pot roast your mom never cooked you. The umami of the beef, mashed potatoes and mushrooms would almost be overwhelming but for the sprightly sprigs of parsley that dot the plate. The result is a hearty yet balanced meal.

Square 1682, beyond its dinner menu, also serves an array of seasonal cocktails under the auspices of lead bartender Daniel Kulisek. Additionally worth noting is the dessert selection—the Tres Leches cake, served with dulce de leche mousse, caramel, candied nuts and vanilla gelato, is a highlight.

Surdam is poised to uphold Square 1682’s reputation for serving stylish yet still accessible New American cuisine. As the menu continues to evolve under Surdam’s influence, local diners should watch to see how the chef brings his personal vision of “simple food done right” to his new home base in Philadelphia.

And while Surdam may be rooted in his influences from below the Mason-Dixon line, he admits that Philly has the slight edge on Washington. While the two city’s restaurant scenes are “very similar,” he notes that “I see a little more flair here, a little more artistic stuff here than in DC.”

Score one for the home team. We’ll make a Philadelphian of you yet, Chef Bobby.

Find Square 1682 at 121 S. 17th St in Philadelphia; phone: (215) 563-5008.

  • Top photo: Square 1682
  • Bottom photo: Jordyn Kimelheim