Philly—The Spanish tapas mothership has landed.
Barcelona Wine Bar opened its first Philadelphia location at the intersection of Passyunk and S. 12th Street in the former 4,400-square-foot A Man’s Image location. Upon entering, you experience the din of soft, upbeat tunes, clinking glasses and warming candlelight reflecting off salvaged wooden walls, polished concrete floors and wrought-iron shelving. Modern art from the owner’s personal collection adorns the walls along with vintage books, canisters and an antique dress form, which all serve as a reminder of the history of the space while bringing it into the present. In pleasant weather, the partially-covered outdoor patio buzzes with conversation, activity and the rhythms of the Avenue.
Connecticut-based Barteca Restaurant Group is to thank for this new epicurean arrival. They currently operate multiple Barcelona Wine Bar locations in Connecticut, Georgia, Massachusetts, Tennessee, Virginia and Washington, D.C.
Spearheading the culinary charge at Barcelona Philly is acclaimed executive chef Paras Shah, who earned his chops at the Institute of Culinary Education and buzzworthy restaurants like Momofuku Noodle Bar and Per Se. His menu contains Barcelona’s go-to dishes such as potato tortilla with chive sour cream and jamon and manchego croquettes with spicy aioli, but expect Shah to roll out adventurous new takes on these flagship Spanish plates in the months to come.
The wine list is extensive, shown off by a glass-encased wine cellar visible from the dining floor, and will make you want to get comfortable and stay, quite a while. The Tempranillo from Montecastrillo, Ribera del Duero is a symphony of pepper, raspberry, raisin and earthy notes, the perfect canvas for the flavors to come. If sangria is more your style, there’s no shortage of that here. Try the white sangria and pick between traditional house-made syrups. The seasonal herb syrup, a blend of lavender, sage and rosemary, adds an unexpected citrusy, earthy layer which balances out the sweet pineapple juice, rum, brandy and orange liqueur.
Freshly baked bread, crispy on the outside and pillowy within, is the ideal vessel to absorb the fruity and bright Spanish olive oil served beside it. And just like that, cue the tapas! Crispy rice, cooked with nutty cheese risotto-style, charred to a crisp and topped with fresh scallions; gambas al ajillo, tender pink shrimp sizzling in butter flecked with garlic and a hint of spice; grilled octopus, or pulpo, with scallion and chimichurri sauce that is spicy, sweet and herbaceous all at once. Next is charred rack of lamb, seared with a perfect crust yet unctuous to the bite, set atop creamy, peppery romesco sauce speckled with mint, followed by tender asparagus in smoked lemon butter.
If you’re not wowed yet, prepare yourself for the Jamon Mangalica from Segovia, Spain. Carved tableside from the leg into paper-thin strips, this salt and sunflower oil-cured Hungarian ham is nutty (the pigs are primarily fed acorns, nuts and berries, imparting a unique flavor to the meat), rich and melts in your mouth like butter.
Save room for dessert because the sweets here are not to be missed. Order the Basque burnt cheesecake with seasonal berries—it’s not your average cheesecake. Barcelona’s owners came across this cake while traveling through Pais Vasco in Spain at a small tavern in San Sebastian. The traditional torta de queso they tried was a blend of sheep, goat and cow’s milk (Barcelona makes their version Philly-style with a local cheese), whipped with cheese and sugar and baked in large iron cazuelas. As the cake bakes, it puffs up and toasts on top, creating its own burnt crust. It’s silky smooth, light and airy with a hint of char for contrast and just heavenly. Buen provecho!
Barcelone Wine Bar in Philadelphia is open daily, from 4 p.m. until “late.”
Find Barcelona Wine Bar at 1709 E. Passyunk Ave. in Philadelphia; phone: (215) 515-7900.
- Photos: Tom McGovern
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