If the chef’s name is Happy, you know you’re in for a treat. That’s going to be my new motto after visiting Conshohocken’s Nirvana last Saturday night. Located on Fayette Street in the former site of the 401 Diner, Nirvana serves American breakfast, a mix of American and Indian cuisines at lunchtime and modern Indian fare at dinner. Don’t let the diner-esque exterior fool you; this spot serves up the best and most original Indian flavors I’ve had in a very long time.
Buoyed by the smells of coconut and curry upon entering, my husband and I were shown to our seat by server extraordinaire Crystal, a Southern gal from Virginia Beach who fortuitously ended up in Conshy via cosmetology school. She uncorked the bottle of Penns Woods Winery Traminette that we had picked up earlier that day at the Brandywine Food & Wine Festival and gave us her list of suggestions. Our seat at one of Nirvana’s booths afforded us plenty of privacy to enjoy our wine and the meal that followed.
The first dishes to arrive were Nirvana’s Tangy Eggplant and Stone Fish, both on the Appetizer menu and both highly recommended by Crystal. Billed as the “alter ego of the eggplant,” the Tangy Eggplant is thin-sliced, fried til crispy and served with a tangy sauce that’s slightly sweet and influenced by Thai flavors. I’m a huge fan of eggplant, but it can often get greasy and weighed down, especially when fried. Not this eggplant. I’d come back to Nirvana for this light-as-air treat alone; my husband agreed, declaring it unlike anything he’s ever eaten before.
The Stone Fish—tilapia filet cooked on stone with ginger, garlic and lemon—was tender and infused with just enough spice. (Crystal suggested that we order our dishes “mild-plus”; while we’re both fans of spicy foods, we didn’t want to overdo it.) Like the Tangy Eggplant, the presentation of the Stone Fish was gorgeous. Nirvana prides itself not only on its flavors but also on its dishes’ visual appeal.
Next came a platter that the chef put together to highlight several different dishes: Salmon Tikka Masala, Tandoori Steak, Chicken Kabab and Tandoori Lamb Chops. Each of these proteins was fresh and fork tender. No knives needed here, not even for the lamb, which was accompanied by a perfectly spicy curry sauce. I wouldn’t normally think to order lamb, but this dish made a believer out of me. I see more Tandoori Lamb in my future!
The platter was accompanied by Navaratna Korma, a vegetarian dish; a bread basket of crispy Naan; a bowl of fluffy basmati rice; and one of the chef’s specialties, Lamb Saag. I usually order Navaratna Korma when eating Indian food, but this was different than any version I’ve previously had. Light and brimming with flavors of coconut and curry, it left just a slight burn at the back of my mouth. Each wonderfully crunchy veggie stood out on its own, yet all melded together in this marvelous dish. The Lamb Saag was rich and creamy, with large chunks of lamb nestled in a bed of beautiful spinach.
Dessert was Orange Kulfi—sweet, smooth, orange-flavored Indian ice cream with bits of cashews. The ice cream is frozen in a real orange “shell” and then sliced into semi-circles that are perfect for eating by hand. At the end of a satisfyingly spicy meal, this cool treat hit the spot.
While we were dining, Nirvana’s owner Nabin Chhantyal and Chef Jagmeet “Happy” Singh came by to chat. Just 24 years old, the charismatic Chef Happy came to the United States to be a pilot and started working in his uncle’s restaurant on the side. He discovered that he liked cooking, and watching cooking shows, but he always thought about how he could put his own twist on the dishes he saw.
After stints at other area restaurants, Chef Happy now has been given free reign by Chhantyal to put his own spin on Indian fare, with beautiful presentations and modern interpretations that take simple dishes to a whole new level. Nirvana is upscale, yet it’s definitely accessible to lovers of traditional Indian food as well as to those who’d like a taste beyond the expected.
Nirvana is located at 401 Fayette Street in Conshohocken; phone: 484-351-8029. You can also follow the restaurant on Facebook.
Chef Happy Singh, Stone Fish and Tandoori Lamb Chops photo credits: Dallyn Pavey/Dish Public Relations. Tangy Eggplant, Navaratna Korma and Orange Kulfi photo credits: Michele Kornegay.
